Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
